Bird Ownership: A Complete 2024 Guide

Do birds make good pets?

Birds can make wonderful, engaging, rewarding pets.  However, like children, they can be very curious, messy, loud, and even destructive.  Careful thought should be given to the decision before getting a pet bird to ensure you are able to provide for their physical, mental, and social needs and they are a good fit for your lifestyle and household. Below are some considerations to take into account when making this decision:

Birds, especially the larger parrot species, can be very loud.  To the point that the neighbors may complain.  Vocalizing can be a normal behavior for many birds.  In the wild, parrots in a flock with initiate “contact calls” to touch base with others in the flock.  Screaming can also be a negative learned behavior.  Some birds have learned to scream for attention (even if that attention is a human screaming back). 

Birds can be destructive.  Parrot species that have a curved beak are very good at chewing and tearing things up.  This is a natural behavior, but can also be the result of boredom.  The larger the parrot, the more destructive they can be.  Baseboards, wires, furniture, and other items may be at risk if the bird is left out unattended. 

Birds are naturally messy.  Just as cats and dogs shed fur, birds lose and replace feathers.  When molting, the feather loss can be significant.  Birds also produce a fine white substance called powder down.  Some species, such as Cockatoos, produce a large amount of powder down normally.  This white powder can get on clothing, creates a lot of “dust” in the house, and can irritate allergies or airway problems for people or even other pets. Birds are messy eaters as well, strewing food bits all over the place when they eat.  

Parrots have the potential to cause injury.  Their nails are naturally sharp to help them grip perches, but on larger birds this can cause scratches and punctures on unprotected hands and arms (wearing long sleeves and/or judicious nail trimming helps).  Birds can also bite.  Parrots’ curved beaks can cause significant discomfort and damage when they bite, especially the larger species. Birds may bite out of fear or may even nip their human to warn them of potential danger.  

Different species have different needs and behaviors.  It is highly recommended to learn about that species’ natural behavior and environment before obtaining a bird.  Some species are more independent (e.g. Amazons) while others are more needy and require almost constant attention (e.g. Cockatoos).  For example, a Cockatoo is unlikely to be a good fit in a busy household where the humans are gone for much of the day and unable to provide the bird with the enrichment and attention they require. Some species are more prone to certain behavior problems, such as feather picking in African Greys and Cockatoos, so these birds should be monitored closely so that any such behavior problems addressed early on.  Keep in mind that not all species talk.  For the ones that do, be careful what they hear, or you may have a problem…  Most species of parrots are very intelligent.  As a generality, parrots have the mental capacity of a five year old child, but the emotional stability of a two year old child.  This means they need a lot of care, attention, and enrichment to avoid behavioral problems.  Time and patience are essential.

Birds are social creatures.  Unless there are already other birds in the home, human family members will be the bird’s only flock.  This means you are your bird’s family, friend, mentor, and provider.  You are responsible for fulfilling their physical, mental, social, and emotional needs.

Some species of birds can be very long lived (some may live up to 60 years) and can represent a significant commitment.  The average parrot has 7 different homes as they are often rehomed due to their longevity and/or behavioral issues. Make sure a parrot is a good fit, and you will have the time and attention to dedicate to them over the course of their lives before obtaining one.

Where is the best place to get a pet bird?

A reputable breeder is usually best.  It is recommended to try to get a hand raised and WEANED bird. Hand feeding baby birds and weaning them can be stressful and difficult to do correctly if you aren’t experienced.  If you are introducing a new bird to a home that currently has birds, a 60 to 90 day quarantine period is recommended (different room, no shared items, wash hands, change clothes between handling new bird and resident birds). A new bird veterinary exam should be performed very soon after purchase.  Regular physical exams afterward are also important.

What kind of cage or housing should my bird have?  How should I transport my bird to the vet’s office?

Lead and zinc are toxic to birds.  Avoid older cages that may have lead based paint.  Avoid galvanized cages to prevent zinc toxicity.  Instead, steel or powder coated cages are recommended.  The cage should be at least 1 and ½ times the wingspan of the bird in all directions.  Try to get the largest cage possible to allow for adequate space, enrichment, and exercise.  Bar spacing and strength should be appropriate for the species (i.e. the head cannot fit through the bars, the bird cannot bend the bars with their beak).  

Use a variety of different sized perches.  Tree branches with bark left on or cholla wood branches are good for providing varied pressure on the feet to help prevent foot sores (bumble foot).  New branches can be baked at 200 degrees F for 2-3 hours to kill any infectious organisms.  Allow the branches to cool before handling.  

Have enough toys and branches so that the bird’s environment is enriched, but avoid overcrowding the cage to the point that the bird cannot extend their wings without bumping into things and damaging feathers. 

Locate the main day-time cage in a busy part of the house so the bird gets social interaction.  Have another cage in a quiet part of the house that can be used as a sleep or roosting cage.  Birds need 10 to 12 hours of sleep every night in a dark, quiet part of the home to help prevent behavioral issues.  The sleep/roosting cage can be smaller and have much fewer (if any) toys than the daytime cage.  Food and water should still be provided. 

Paper should be used to line the bottom of the cage. Corn cob-based materials should not be used as they can grow a potentially serious fungal organism.  The paper should be changed daily and the cage scrubbed and cleaned at least weekly.

For transportation (e.g. to vet appointments), the smaller sleep cage may be used as the bird is already used to it.  Other options include carriers made for birds, plexiglass bird boxes with perches, or hard plastic cat carriers that can be opened from the side or the top.  Bar spacing or ventilation holes should be small enough that the bird cannot get their head stuck, so there may be limitations on using some carriers for very small birds.  For larger parrots such as macaws, small dog crates may suffice.  For parrot species that have a hooked beak, cardboard boxes or fabric carriers are not an optimal way to transport them as they can chew a hole in the container and escape or get stuck.  NEVER transport your bird to the veterinary clinic loose on your shoulder or arm.  Birds can be easily startled and fly away, attempt to fly away and hurt themselves, or be injured by dogs (or cats) in the lobby or parking lot.  

How do I keep by bird entertained?  How can I help prevent behavioral problems? 

Providing things to do that keep your bird’s mind busy is very important!  Again, birds are very intelligent and curious.  If they don’t have an outlet for this, behavioral problems are often the result. 

Social interaction is important.  Most pet bird species are social in nature and live in flocks.  Isolation and lack of social interaction with human family members or other birds can be mentally and emotionally damaging.  Talking, dancing, training, and playing games are great ways to fill this need.  During down time, having your bird with you on a perch, play gym, or daytime cage can be a way to get in quality time.  

Play gyms and separate play areas help to prevent the bird from being territorial of their cage.  A variety of toys that are rotated to prevent boredom should be provided.  Puzzle toys and foot toys are great options.

In the wild, most birds spend a good part of their day (6 to 18 hours) foraging for food.  Depriving them of this activity can lead to boredom and behavior problems, especially feather picking and, in extreme cases, self-mutilation.  Foraging activities should be provided daily.  Some birds need to be taught to forage and you need to go slow so they don’t become scared or frustrated.  Once they get the hang of it, many birds prefer foraging to getting food from their bowl. Below are some foraging activity suggestions. 

If the bird is a parrot, give them things they can safely chew up and destroy.  This includes hanging up phone books, stuffing shredded paper and treats in empty paper towel or toilet paper cardboard tubes and folding the ends closed, stuffing shredded paper and treats in paper bags or cardboard boxes, weaving paper twists in the bars of the cage, placing food in crumpled pieces of paper or crumpled paper cups, providing untreated wood for chewing, etc.  However, be sure to avoid tape and glue on cardboard products such as boxes and paper towel tubes.  Some glues contain zinc, which is toxic if ingested. Tape can get stuck to the bird’s delicate skin and cause injury.  Avoid treated wood products.

Nonperishable food can be mixed with larger untreated wood beads or dried beans in a bowl so birds have to forage for the food items. Treats and food items can be hung from leather ropes for foraging. A foraging tree can be provided for feeding.  A free video can be found at https://avianstudios.com/captive-foraging-dvd/.  

What should I feed my bird?

Feeding a proper diet is hugely important.  Poor husbandry and diet are the #1 causes of disease of pet birds!  Good quality pelleted diets are recommended over seed diets.  Seed mixes should be avoided over the long term as birds will often pick out the seeds to eat.  Seeds and nuts are high in fat but low in vitamins A and D.  Vitamin deficiencies and secondary health problems, as well as obesity, are common in birds on a seed diet. Examples of quality pelleted diets include Harrison’s (https://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/); ZuPreem Natural, Veggie Blend, Fruit Blend, Nut Blend, or Pasta Blend (https://zupreem.com/birds/); Mazuri bird diets (https://mazuri.com/collections/bird); and Lefeber pelleted diets (https://lafeber.com/shop/).  Lafeber also makes seed and pelleted food blends such as Avi-Cakes and Nutri-berries that can act as a transition food between seeds and pellets for difficult to transition birds.  

Diet transitions should be done very slowly.  Mix the current diet with the new diet and very gradually shift the proportions of the foods to include more pellets and less seeds, until the bird is eating the pelleted diet and the seeds can be phased out.  Young birds generally adapt relatively quickly, but it may take many months to transition an older bird, so be patient.  There are different formulations and flavors of pelleted diets, so you can also try different varieties to see if your bird prefers one over another.  One trick is to soak the pellets in water or fruit juice to make a mash and mix this with the seeds initially.  If this is done, the food should be changed and the bowls cleaned several times a day.  After the seeds are phased out, the water or fruit juice can be reduced and eliminated gradually as well until the bird is just eating pellets.  You can even try modeling the behavior of eating the diet.  Start by picking at the pelleted diet in a dish with our fingers, shuffling it around to mimic foraging.  Pick up a piece and offer it to your bird first.  If they don’t go for it, pretend to eat it in front of them and act like you enjoy it.  While this process seems silly, it can be repeated daily and can teach the bird to eat the new food through learning from you, their fellow flock member.  Don’t try to force a rapid transition, as some birds will go on hunger strike.  Scant, dark green or black feces may indicate a lack of food intake.  If this is seen, reintroduce the previous diet. 

While some food should be provided in a bowl, remember to use food and treats for foraging activities as well.

What treats can I give my bird?

Veggies and legumes are encouraged.  Fruit should only be given in moderation.  Seeds and nuts can be given as occasional snacks, training treats, or foraging treats.  Care should be taken to make sure these treats do not make up more than 10% of the bird’s intake.  Table food is discouraged.  Whole grain items, such as plain whole wheat pasta, whole grain crackers, plain popcorn, or plain Cheerios may be offered sparingly as treats used in training or foraging activities. Never give alcohol, chocolate, caffeine, high salt or high sugar foods, or fried foods. Avocados are toxic to birds and should never be offered!

How do I bathe my bird?

Most birds should be given a “bath” at least twice weekly.  For birds that enjoy bathing, short baths can be provided up to daily.  Make sure the house is at least 60 degrees F before getting your bird wet. For some birds, bathing may mean supplying a large shallow dish with warm water so they can splash around themselves.  Some may like to play in a sink with a gentle stream of running warm water. For others, gently misting them with warm water from a spray bottle until their feathers are damp is sufficient.  Some birds love spending time in the shower with their owners, either perched on the shower curtain rod or on a shower perch, and being gently splashed with warm water.  Make sure to keep the bird in a warm room afterwards until they are dry.

How can I tell if my bird is sick?

Birds are a prey species and are well adapted to mask signs of illness.  By the time an illness becomes obvious, it is usually advanced and serious.  Therefore, it’s very important to watch closely for even small clues that your bird isn’t doing well and bring them to a veterinarian for evaluation promptly.

Some signs of illness in birds include:

• Eating less or not eating

• Scant, dark green or black stools 

• Less active

• Less vocal

• Changes in normal behavior

• Fluffed, sleepy appearance even when it isn’t bedtime

• Sitting on the bottom of the cage for longer than normal periods of time

• Weight loss (more prominent breastbone)

If possible, teaching your bird to step onto a perch on a gram scale can help with monitoring weight.  Recommend check the weight every 2 weeks or so.  Steady or dramatic declines in weight should prompt a visit to the vet.

How to avoid airborne toxins and irritants in birds

Bird respiratory tracts are very sensitive to toxins and irritants in the air they breathe.  This is why miners used to use canaries in mines to detect dangerous gases.  

Over-heated Teflon pans release a toxin in the air that can be fatal to birds and other small animals.

It is strongly recommended to avoid smoke, incense, air fresheners, scented candles, essential oils, aerosolized cleaning products, or any other substances released into the air that can be irritating to the lungs and airways.

Additional behavior tips

Most birds are curious but can be wary of changes.  Make changes gradually when possible.

Avoid mate-like activities that may stimulate unwanted behaviors in the bird or possibly even medical issues related to reproductive problems.  Avoid feeding the bird from your mouth or kissing the bird.   Avoid touching the bird’s back or on the sides under with wings.  Avoid prolonged cuddling or petting.  Avoid shoulder perching.  This is especially important for certain species, such as Cockatoos. 

Try to avoid having the bird on your shoulder or near your face unless you have a long history with the bird and trust them.  Some birds may bite unexpectedly to warn you of danger or if they become scared.  Jewelry such as earrings may be irresistible to some birds and can be torn out and/or ingested.  

In general, reward positive behaviors (e.g. pleasant vocalizations, foraging/playing with toys, trained behaviors) and ignore negative behaviors (e.g. screaming, pulling out feathers*, attempted biting, etc) to avoid reinforcing the negative behavior (if the bird is seeking attention, scolding is still considered attention).  (*Do not reinforce feather picking behavior but seek veterinary care as soon as possible to discuss possible underlying medical causes and any behavioral modifications, testing, or medication recommendations.)

Training positive behaviors, such as target training, step up, getting into carriers, and towel training can be a great way to bond with the bird and set them up for success long term.  Some great resources for this and other training/behavior tips are below:

• https://vimeo.com/ondemand/parrotvetcare

• https://www.goodbirdinc.com/parrot-store-dvds.html

• https://www.youtube.com/GoodBirdInc

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QCcZuG99bs

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JM-6VOOexaA

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn-4c8HzvBA

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6Z6rhY5K3Y

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKDvxE5uexY

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67Aaes3H08k

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fcK7EybonQ

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHiPQvQCjnQ

• http://goodbirdinc.blogspot.com/2011/03/training-your-parrot-to-like-a-towel.html

• http://goodbirdinc.blogspot.com/2015/08/overcoming-fear-responses-two-tools.html

• http://goodbirdin.blogspot.com/2014/03/life-saving-training-scale-training.html 

Additional Resources

Expert Companion Bird Care, Volumes 1, 2, & 3 by Dr. Scott Echols: https://avianstudios.com or 801-298-9093 to order

Captive Foraging by Dr. Scott Echols (FREE!): https://avianstudios.com/captive-foraging-dvd/

https://avianenrichment.com/